Runway beauty this season was heavily influenced by the sixties. Think Sharmila Tagore, Twiggy and Audrey Hepburn, but with a contemporary interpretation.
The hair: Volume, and lots of it. At Marc Jacobs, hairstylist Guido Paulo referenced spunky sixties girl Edie Sedgwick and created loads of teased texture, "not like Amy Winehouse though, that's not the point," he clarified. More teased hair made an appearance at Louis Vuitton, in the form of a faux short crop styled with a bow-accented hairband. Moschino, Payal Pratap Singh, Anand Kabra played it more literal with a big bouffant sitting on the crown for the former and a voluminous braided updo for Singh and Kabra. Wendell Rodricks had his hair team create a towering quiff, leaving the remaining hair sleek in contrast. A teasing brush and a strong-hold hairspray should be on your season's shopping list.
The face: Mod make-up concentrated on the eyes, and pared down the pout with matte lip colours in light, nude shades, sometimes chalky to a fault.
At Louis Vuitton, both the upper and lower lash lines were defined in black, a spider lash effect created with mascara for that wide-eyed look and a wash of glossy peach on the lids.
The crease of the eyelid was in the spotlight -- at Kiran Uttam Ghosh, the pale white shadow on the lids was made starker with a rusty brown hue painted into the crease and the lower lash line, François Nars rimmed the eyes with a kohl pencil at Marc Jacobs, and repeated a similar stroke of black on the lid crease, while at Michael Kors, eyes were kept bare save for a vivid swipe of bright blue and green eyeliner applied on the crease.
Winged tips were a mainstay of the sixties but there were plenty of updates on the classic at the spring/summer 2013 shows. Val Garland at Mary Katrantzou created feline eyes by covering the entire lid upto the crease with a solid dark blue pencil and adding little kitten flicks at the ends. At Temperley London, liner was painted on thick on the lid, flicked out, and continued halfway onto the bottom lashline. Chanel had a futuristic take, replacing the pale base shadows of the time with solid silver and heavily lined eyes.
A white eye pencil is handy to have if you plan to have a go at sixties make-up. The girls at Pratima Pandey, Ritesh Kumar and Vaishali S had white liner applied parallel to black liner on the lower lash lines. The white then blended out softly over the lid.
At Rodricks, white and black liner traced the upper lash line together until the black ended in a skinny flick and the white branched out, finished with long, fluttery faux lashes. Moschino girls had eyes rimmed in white and framed with extra long lashes, and a glossy orange lip. A dab of white on the lids gave a monochrome edge to make-up artist Lisa Butler's Emilio Pucci look, which was paired with black-rimmed eyes.
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