Nicholas Samartis has photographed some of the world’s most recognisable faces and worked for Vogue titles internationally. Here, he shares his secrets to capturing the most flattering self-portrait.
What makes a great portrait?
It's that certain presence that the sitter has; the twinkle in the eye, a bit of confidence and a sense of empowerment.
Any tips to combat bad lighting?
If the light is low, face in that direction. Always avoid overhanging light, whether it’s a light bulb or the sun. Avoid the mid-day sun -- just after sunrise or just before sunset is the ideal time. If the sun is low enough, do some back lighting -- that gives great results.
Beautiful window lighting is always very complimentary. Look through old paintings. Vermeer or Rembrandt kind of hit the nail on the head with that ¾ soft window light coming through.
Also experiment with flash. Hold it a little closer to you. Light is anti-intuitive so it reacts differently to what we see. The closer the light, the softer it is. It’s very complimentary and helps to blur out imperfections.
How should one stand in a photograph?
If you study all of the successful covers, most models will have their body at a ¾ angle with their face straight on and chin down just a touch, starring straight down the barrel of the lens.
What’s the best distance and angle to hold the camera at?
People tend to hold their cameras up like a trophy -- I think that’s natural instinct. But then they look a bit top heavy or their head looks like a lollipop. Hold the camera about 100 or 90 degrees away from the body, so it’s perpendicular to the ground.
Never hold the camera lower or you’ll end up with a double chin or shooting up your nose.
How does one remain confident and comfortable in front of the camera?
In a nutshell, if you feel comfortable, the chances are you’re going to look comfortable. For example, you know when you’ve just come out of the salon and you’re feeling kind of fabulous so you call your friends to go for a drink? Capture yourself at that time.
They say the eyes are the most important part of a portrait. Do you agree, and do you have any tips for making them stand out?
Look not at the lens, but straight through it. That’s what makes a great cover. Also experiment with what kind of make-up is going to make your eyes look big and fresh. That’s the advantage of digital -- you can take as many as you want because it’s free so have fun with it.
Can you tell us what not to do in a photograph?
Definitely ‘the pout’ or the Awkward Lean.
What kind of expression is best?
I think a sense of playfulness is key. Pretend you’re fooling around taking pictures with a friend.
Out of the celebrities you’ve worked with, who took the best photo and why?
Through Vogue, I was very lucky to be able to photograph some of the most beautiful people. I was very surprised at Katie Holmes – she was just a real natural beauty.
Also Keira Knightley, Ashley Judd and Ashton Kutcher were fantastic to photograph. And then there’s the supermodels - Raquel Zimmermann is extraordinary, Gisele is fabulous and maybe, above all, Doutzen. I loved working with her.
This article originally appeared on Vogue.com.au
